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the rails move freely. In this case, also use the rail section to
position the block during welding. It is held for welding by
clamping or wedging, and after cleaning up the welds, the latch
is assembled and the retainer pin placed and locked. The stock
assembly is inserted in the frame and checked for free
movement, and both rail holes and stock rails are ground or filed
for necessary clearance.
So, there is a sequencial order that must be followed. No doubt,
the over anxious will get the opportunity to re-read and re-do a
lot of the preceeding instructions! Experience is what you get
when you don't get what you wanted. Everyone can get what
they want the first time out if they will exercise patience and
follow instructions.
The components of the basic lower reciever are as follows:
The formed frame
The front tabs
The sear stud
The trigger guard
The magazine well
After the trigger group holes are drilled and deburred, the front
tabs are placed inside the frame taking care to keep the upward
notches to the rear. Do not clamp this peice, but hold it in place
with a piece of 5/16" round stock such as a dowel pin or drill.
The original connector pin is not advised to be used because the
heat of the weld may damage the spring under the locking ball in
the pin. The factory method is to weld the top area of the bends
of the tabs. Often, one side of the tabs will appear to angle away
from the frame side. In this case, weld just the one laying flat to
the side, and then with the alignment pin still in place, use a pair
of vise grips to squeeze the errant side to the frame, and thus
held, weld that side also. If welding at the 'U' formed front edge,
weld it all as one continuous weld. The thinness of the metal is
difficult to weld with stick arc welders, even for the advanced
welder. Therefore, the egde welding is only advised to the users
of heliarc. If the builder is unfamiliar with sheet metal welding, a
little practice on some scrap is advised prior to the actual
welding of the frame. The simplest and quickest attachment is to
weld the top of the tab sides only. It is not necessary to weld up
the area along the front face of the frame to close the gap
between the front tabs and the frame, but it makes a much nicer
appearance, welded and ground clean.
The sear stud is next and it is best clamped in place with a pair
of vise grips taking care to keep the front of the jaw on the
outside bottom clear of the stud sticking out of the hole. Of
course, once tacked, the vise grips can be removed to finish the
weld. Just be certain that it is flat and square to the clean
deburred hole before welding. Advise is hereby given to the
wary: with the tremendous demand for the parts kits, mistakes
do happen in packaging. Occasionally, a Model 10 part may
appear in the trigger group parts. All of these are obvious but
the sear stud. If your parts kit contains the model 10 stud, it will
have a 1/4" welding stud instead of the 3/16" of the M11/9 and
M12/380. The first impulse may be to simply open the hole to
1/4" and weld it in. Please note that the thickness of the base,
that distances the contact surface of the sear to the bolt, is
thicker by .050" than the M11/9 sear stud. If used as is, this
could prevent engagement of the sear with the bolt, resulting in
a "runaway gun" phenomenon like that described earlier with
the fixed full auto firing pin in the semi-auto gun. Either chuck it
up in a lathe or drill press and turn it to the proper dimensions,
return it for an exchange, or trade it off at the next gun show for
what you need. Do not use this part in the M11/9 as is!
Now, grind the areas inside the front tabs clean for fit to the
upper receiver, and the sear stud weld clean for appearance.
Place the rear sight plate (also called the "backing plate") in
position over the area of the rear tab containing the two holes
for the two pins of the bolt assembly and clamp in position with
a small block of metal or wood placed inside the frame. Clamp
on this block to hold the sight plate in position, or stand the
frame back end up in a vise and lay the plate down in the width
allowed for it. Measure from the top of the sight plate down to
the top of the frame approximately .500". Tack at one upper
corner and the opposite bottom corner. Weld only the cut areas
of the sides of this plate, carefully filling them up. Grind this
weld clean and mildly radius the sides. Only in the event the
stock kit will be used will any consideration for the bottom
clearance of the plate be given.
In all of these welds, avoid overwelding. Experienced welders
know to use weld sparingly on such thin metal. Broad area
coverage tends to cause a contraction that warps the metal and
these distortions can change the relationship in the dimensions
of parts to each other enough to create binding that is just more
work to fit in. The only obvious exception here is the sight plate
at the back. With all of the afore mentioned finished, place the
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